Fast Fashion vs. The Indie Designer & How It’s Shaping the Future of Plus Size Fashion: An Editor’s Op-Ed | The Curvy Fashionista

From the Editor-in-Chief’s Desk

Why This Matters for Plus Size Fashion and Sustainability

Every Earth Month, we reflect on how fashion impacts our planet. But there’s one conversation that doesn’t get enough attention: sustainable fashion in plus sizes. For years, plus size shoppers have had to choose between fast fashion that offers accessibility and indie designers who prioritize ethical production but often come with higher price tags.

So, where does that leave us? As the plus size fashion industry grows (it’s projected to hit $696 billion by 2027, according to Allied Market Research), we must ask: Is sustainability even an option for plus size shoppers? And how can we bridge the gap between affordability and ethical fashion? Let’s break it down.

The Reality of Fast Fashion in Plus Size Clothing

Fast Fashion Became the Go-To for Plus Sizes

Let’s be honest: fast fashion has played a major role in giving plus size consumers access to trendy, affordable clothing. In a world where department stores still don’t consistently carry sizes beyond a 20, brands like Shein, Fashion Nova Curve, Forever 21 (RIP), and PrettyLittleThing have stepped in to offer options up to 4X and beyond.

But… at what cost?

Fast fashion thrives on mass production, cheap labor, and synthetic fabrics, which contribute to massive textile waste and pollution. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation reports that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions—and fast fashion is the biggest culprit.

Yet, many of us plus size shoppers feel stuck. When sustainable options are limited, what are they supposed to wear?

Shein’s Ultra-Fast Fashion Model

Shein, now valued at over $100 billion, has completely transformed the fashion industry—especially for plus sizes. Producing over 6,000 new styles a day, the brand provides size inclusivity in ways many mainstream retailers still don’t, but at the expense of ethical labor practices and sustainability. Reports from Business of Fashion have questioned whether Shein’s “sustainability pledges” are just greenwashing.

For many plus size consumers, Shein has become the go-to for affordable, trend-forward fashion.

But it’s not just sustainability that’s at stake—Shein has also been repeatedly accused of copying designs from indie and small designers, including plus size brands.

In 2023, several independent designers, including Mariama Diallo (@iamronnie), Bailey Prado, and Flaws of Couture, publicly called out Shein for allegedly stealing original designs and recreating them at mass scale with little to no credit—or legal repercussions. These knockoffs are not just identical in style but often undercut the original pricing, making it nearly impossible for the original creators to compete.

This practice devalues the work of indie plus size designers, who already operate on thin margins and limited production runs. While indie brands spend months perfecting a design that works for plus bodies, Shein can copy and mass-produce the look in a matter of days, undercutting the artistry, ethics, and fit in the process.

So, while Shein might be offering visibility in sizing, it’s also actively harming the very designers pushing plus size fashion forward.

The Struggles of Indie Plus Size Designers

While fast fashion continues to dominate the market and flood it with affordable options, indie plus size designers are doing the hard, often invisible work—filling in the gaps with ethical production, better fit, intentional design, and actual size inclusivity. But building and sustaining a brand in this space isn’t easy. In fact, it’s a constant uphill climb with systemic challenges at every turn.

1. Higher Production Costs

One of the biggest hurdles indie designers face is the cost of production, especially for extended sizing. More fabric, custom grading, specialized fit models, and limited access to inclusive pattern blocks all add up. Unlike mass brands that produce in bulk, indie designers often manufacture in small batches (or even made-to-order), which drives up the price per unit significantly.

Many factories charge more for plus size production due to fabric usage and the myth that it’s more “complicated,” even though plus size shoppers deserve the same standard of fashion as their straight-size counterparts.

2. Lack of Access to Sustainable, Size-Inclusive Materials

Indie designers who want to create sustainable fashion face an additional burden: sourcing eco-conscious fabrics that work for plus size silhouettes is incredibly difficult. Many sustainable mills don’t offer four-way stretch, drapey knits, or high-quality linings in larger bolts—or the price is prohibitively expensive for a small brand.

This means that even designers wanting to create sustainable pieces for plus bodies may find themselves priced out of the very fabric market meant to encourage ethical production.

3. Retail & Distribution Gatekeeping

Despite the fact that 67% of American women wear a size 14 or above, plus size fashion remains underrepresented in traditional retail, accounting for only 17% of the women’s apparel market. This gap reflects a long-standing hesitancy among retail buyers to fully invest in plus size options—especially when those designs come from indie brands. For many retailers, expanding sizing is seen as costly and complex, leading them to view plus size fashion as a financial risk rather than a growth opportunity (Medium, Fashion Incubator). That leads to fewer wholesale opportunities, limited shelf space, and exclusion from major fashion weeks and industry events.

Without that visibility and validation, many indie brands remain “niche” despite having a strong, loyal following. It’s a catch-22: you need visibility to scale, but scaling is what brings visibility.

4. Underfunded and Overlooked

While venture capital continues to flow into the fashion tech space and direct-to-consumer startups, very little of that funding goes to plus size fashion brands, and even less to those founded by Black, brown, queer, or disabled designers. That lack of capital makes it nearly impossible to invest in marketing, production, and growth—leaving many talented designers stuck in survival mode.

According to Digitalundivided’s Project Diane, less than 1% of venture funding goes to Black women entrepreneurs, despite the fact that Black women are among the top consumers of plus size fashion.

5. Emotional Labor & Community Pressure

Many plus size indie designers are not just running a business—they’re leading a movement. They’re educating consumers, pushing back against industry bias, and serving communities that have historically been ignored. That’s a lot of emotional labor, especially when they’re also navigating consumer demand for affordability in a system that doesn’t support their pricing structures.

It’s a balancing act between staying true to your values and making enough money to survive. As Cynthia Vincent, founder of sustainable plus size brand BAACAL, explains:

“One of my biggest challenges right now is simply reaching more of my customer. She’s out there—she wants and needs great clothes. When I do connect with her, she quickly becomes a fan, a loyal customer, and someone who’s genuinely excited about the brand. I hear it directly in the messages I receive.
The issue is, reaching new customers in today’s digital landscape is expensive. Competing in ad space and digital marketing as an independent designer requires not just a sizable budget, but a smart, long-term strategy that can be difficult to maintain without a large team. And while everyone promises they have the solution—from AI tools to agencies—there’s no one-size-fits-all fix.
The same goes for expanding product offerings. As a brand committed to ethical and sustainable practices, everything I do is intentionally limited. Even our core pieces are produced in small quantities and restocked based on demand. It costs more, because lower production volumes increase per-unit pricing—but it’s worth it.
This is how I choose to reduce waste. We use deadstock and rescued materials. It’s more labor-intensive, but the model is sound. The product resonates. The customer is there. The challenge is simply reaching her. Now, I have to think about finding a strategic financial partner or who knows! There may be investors who are customers!”

Vincent’s story is emblematic of a much larger truth: Indie plus size designers are innovating out of necessity, not luxury. They are visionaries working without a safety net—and yet, they’re the ones most committed to pushing the industry forward through sustainability, quality, and radical inclusivity. If we want the plus size fashion industry to evolve, we must invest in the people doing the work—and remove the structural barriers standing in their way.

Sustainability in Plus Size Fashion: Who’s Leading the Way?

The truth is, only 9% of sustainable fashion brands include plus sizes. That’s a huge problem. Sustainable fashion shouldn’t just be for straight-sized shoppers. Luckily, a few brands are doing things differently:

• Baacal by Cynthia Vincent – Uses deadstock fabrics (leftover materials from fashion houses) to create stylish, high-end pieces in sizes up to 28.
• Loud Bodies – Offers organic, size-inclusive fashion up to 10X, proving that sustainability and extended sizing can go hand in hand.
• Altar PDX – Specializes in ethically made, handmade plus size pieces, supporting independent artisans.

Even with these brands and a few other indie plus size designers leading the charge, why isn’t the entire industry catching up?

Can Fast Fashion and Indie Designers Coexist in Plus Size Fashion?

Here’s the million-dollar question: Can fast fashion brands and indie designers work together to create more sustainable plus size fashion?

The answer isn’t black and white—but there are models that show promise when done right.

Championing a Smarter, Leaner Model: Rebdolls

One standout is Rebdolls, an indie brand that moves with fast fashion’s agility but avoids its wasteful practices. Rebdolls uses deadstock fabric (leftover materials from larger fashion houses), and rather than overproducing, they run on a “produce-as-needed” model.

Yes, this model can lead to early sell-outs, but it also cultivates a more intentional shopping culture—one that values resourcefulness over mass consumption. For a brand that caters to sizes up to 5X and centers plus size women of color in its marketing and design philosophy, Rebdolls offers a real-world blueprint for how brands can serve the plus size consumer while honoring sustainability.

Collaborations That Make Sense—and a Difference

Christian Siriano x Lane Bryant – This high-profile collab brought Siriano’s red-carpet glam to Lane Bryant’s loyal plus size consumer base. It was a standout moment that proved elevated design and extended sizing can coexist in retail.

Eloquii x The Cultivate Awards – Yes, TCF’s own initiative belongs here. The Cultivate Awards is a first-of-its-kind program created by The Curvy Fashionista to spotlight indie designers of color within the plus size fashion space. With Eloquii as the presenting sponsor, the Awards go beyond visibility: finalists received funding, mentorship, and designed a capsule collection with Eloquii. This is a real blueprint for collaboration—one that uplifts indie talent, delivers elevated design to consumers, and closes the accessibility gap.

Harlem’s Fashion Row x Nordstrom – In 2020, Harlem’s Fashion Row, known for championing Black designers, teamed up with Nordstrom to spotlight inclusive, culturally rooted fashion through its “Icon Collection.” This collaboration gave Black designers—many of whom offer extended sizing—the platform, funding, and retail infrastructure they often lack. The partnership emphasized storytelling, heritage, and community, while also putting inclusive fashion in front of a national audience.

What Makes These Collaborations Work?

• They value the designer’s voice and expertise, especially when it comes to plus size fit and representation.
• They provide resources and infrastructure indie brands may not otherwise have access to—such as manufacturing, distribution, and marketing support.
• Most importantly, they deliver innovation and inspiration to the consumer, not just extended sizing as an afterthought.

These kinds of collaborations show what’s possible when the fashion industry moves beyond lip service and into real partnership. The future of plus size fashion lies in more of this—intentional collaboration that empowers indie designers and elevates the industry as a whole.

How Plus Size Shoppers Can Support Sustainable Fashion

So, what can we do?

Shop small and support indie designers when possible. Small brands like JIBRI and Baacal rely on direct consumer support.

Invest in quality over quantity. Instead of buying 10 Shein dresses, consider saving for a piece that will last years instead of months.

Explore resale and secondhand plus size fashion. Boutiques like The Plus Bus, Secondhand Stare, Secondhand Curves and Proud Mary Fashion are making sustainable shopping easier for us plus size consumers.

Call out brands that exclude plus sizes from their sustainability efforts. If a “sustainable” brand stops at size L, ask them why. Brands won’t change unless they see demand.

The Future of Plus Size Fashion & Sustainability

Let’s be clear: fast fashion dominates the plus size fashion space—not because it’s the best option, but because, for many, it’s the only one that feels accessible. It delivers what plus size shoppers have long been denied: variety, affordability, and visibility. But that access has come at a high price—both ethically and environmentally.

On the other hand, indie designers are the true changemakers in this space. They’re not just extending sizing—they’re reimagining what plus size fashion can look like when you lead with intention, sustainability, and design that actually respects plus bodies. They’re innovating in fit, creating ethical production models, and doing it all with limited resources and immense creativity.

But here’s the truth: they can’t do it alone.

The plus size community holds power—real, economic power that can shape this industry. When we support designers who prioritize ethical practices, when we call out greenwashing and size exclusion, when we demand better—brands listen. Retailers pay attention. Investors shift their focus.

Let’s challenge ourselves to look beyond the trend cycle and ask more of the industry. Let’s amplify indie plus size designers. Let’s support sustainable brands doing the hard work.  

This month as we celebrate another Earth Day, this is a fun reminder that fashion should be for everyone—and so should sustainability. The more we push for change, the closer we get to a future where plus size fashion is ethical, inclusive, and accessible for all.