Crete is the largest and most diverse of the Greek islands. It has something of interest for everyone: history and culture galore, beaches aplenty, soaring mountains, canyons, historic towns and interesting archeological sites. With so much to see and do in Crete, you’ll need a well planned itinerary if you want to explore the island properly.
After visiting the Ionian islands, I thought the battle for my favorite Greek island was between Corfu and Ithaca, but I was wrong. Crete is now my favorite one for very many good reasons. It’s simply impossible to get bored there. I expected Crete would be lovely, but not THIS lovely!
How to Explore Crete Properly
One thing I need to mention from the beginning is that we visited Crete independently, as part of a 3-week Greek Islands Itinerary. If you are interested in visiting Crete on an organized trip, there are many tour operators who offer guided trips. However, with an organized trip you won’t be able to see as much as we did.
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We arrived in Athens by plane, then rented a car and moved from island to island by ferry. But if you don’t plan to visit other islands, you can fly to Crete directly from many cities in Europe. The island has two airports: one in Heraklion and one in Chania.
If you plan to visit the entire island you’ll need to rent a car. There are car rental agencies at both Crete airports, as well as in the cities. While visiting Crete by public transportation is technically possible, it is very time-consuming and not at all convenient. However, many people choose to limit their explorations to one portion of the island, in which case using the bus system may work.
How Much Time to Spend in Crete
Crete is really huge! It measures about 3,260 square miles (8,450 square kilometers. Just to give you an idea, it’s nearly 100 times the size of Mykonos. Because it’s so big and diverse you’ll need a minimum 7 days in order to see some of its marvels. But if you truly want to enjoy Crete I would recommend planning a 10 to 14 days itinerary. We’ve spent 10 days on this island and felt it was not enough.
Where to Stay When Visiting Crete
I recommend staying in at least two places when visiting Crete. Distances are big here, so the idea is to spend less time driving and more time having fun.
We spent the first five days of our itinerary on the eastern side of Crete, in Agios Nikolaos, and the next five on the western side, in Chania. This proved to be a good option because our driving time between the different points of interests didn’t exceed 2 hours (one way).
Crete Itinerary – 10 Days
We arrived by ferry from Santorini and started our itinerary on the eastern part of the island.
Day 1: Agios Nikolaos
Built atop the remains of an ancient city, Agios Nikolaos is an interesting mix of an artsy-sleepy and yet also bustling town.
The town’s landmark is Lake Voulismeni, known for its many legends. According to Greek Mythology, it the goddesses Athena and Artemis used to bathe in this lake. The sweet-water lake becomes one with the sea through a narrow canal that has red rock formations and lush vegetation all around.
Perhaps the most common thing to do in Agios Nikolaos is to enjoy some shopping in the downtown area. You can also walk around the marina, which is a very colorful and lively place, or sit in one of the seaside cafés.
In the afternoon you can delve into the history of the Minoan civilization at the Archaeological Museum of Agios Nikolaos. The museum features a collection of exhibits showcasing their culture and life. Or you may choose to spend the rest of the day at the beach.
Day 2: Elounda & Spinalonga Island
In the morning you can visit Elounda, a charming seaside town located within the municipality of Agios Nikolaos. Elounda has several nice beaches, including the main beach of Plaka, which is a pebble beach. Or you can go to Driros, a sandy beach perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports.
Another interesting thing you can do in Elounda is explore the ancient sunken city of Olous, a significant archeological site. Or you can stop by the church of Agios Konstandinou Kai Elenis to admire some stunning frescoes.
In the afternoon take a boat trip to Spinalonga Island, a former leper colony. This is a very enjoyable trip that you shouldn’t miss when visiting this side of Crete. On Spinalonga you can explore the Venetian Fortress as well the ruins of an abandoned village.
Practical Information for Visiting Spinalonga Island
Boats for Spinalonga Island depart daily around 12:30 pm from the main port in Agios Nikolaos and drop you off on the island and will pick you up around 5 pm. Boats to Spinalonga from Elounda run every 30 minutes during the tourist season. The cost is €20/person.
Most people explore the island on their own, because it’s really very small, but there are also group tours if that’s what you are after. Admission fee for Spinalonga Island is €8 for adults and free for students and under 18. There’s a cafe, toilets and a souvenir shop on the island, near the port.
Day 3: Vai Palm Beach & Lassithi
Today’s itinerary will take you to the easternmost part of Crete, at one of the most spectacular beaches on the island: Vai Palm Beach. To reach it you’ll have to cross the Dikti Mountain range, also known as the Lassithi Plateau. This is a major mountain range that runs through the Lassithi region, one of the most remote and authentic parts of Crete! The drive takes about 1.5 hours from Agios Nikolaos.
The road across the mountains is absolutely spectacular, winding around the shore and unveiling unbelievably beautiful views. Along the way you’ll pass through lush forests, fertile green fields dotted with orchards, almond trees and the remains of ancient windmills, cradled by the rugged mountains of the Dikti range.
Vai is a very beautiful beach surrounded by a patch of palm trees, which are rather unusual for Greece. The beach has chairs and umbrellas but is a little too crowded for my taste.
However, if you don’t mind a short hike, to the right of Vai Beach there is a small golf that hides a nude beach. If you don’t mind the nakedness, this one is truly beautiful and just perfect for swimming and sunbathing.
Day 4: Heraklion (Knossos Palace), Heronissos, Zeus’ Cave
On the 4th day of your itinerary you will be heading towards Heraklion, a port city and the capital of Crete. Here you’ll be visiting the ancient Knossos Palace, a major center of the Minoan civilization dating back to approximately 2000-1350 BCE.
This is one of Europe’s oldest cities and a very interesting archeological site. However, if you want to visit buy your ticket at the archeological museum because the queue is horrendously long. There were literally hundreds of people waiting in the boiling sun when we were there!
In the afternoon go to one of the beautiful beaches in Heronissos. This bustling resort town is located on the northern coast of Crete, about 26 km east of Heraklion. The beaches in this area are relatively narrow with very limited space for sunbathing. Nonetheless they are very, very scenic and truly worth a stop.
Another option for the afternoon is a visit to the Cave of Zeus, also known as the Idaean Cave of Antiquity. The cave is about 60 km away from Heraklion, on your way back to Agios Nikolaos. Zeus’ Cave is in a rather remote place, on the slopes of Mount Ida. Along the way you’ll come across many goats and sheep herds.
Even if you’re not a fan of Greek mythology you’ll stillenjoy exploring this stalagmite and stalactite-filled cavern. Also, the views of the surrounding valley at the top are stunning!
Day 5: Rethymno & Drive to Chania
On the 5th day of our itinerary we left Agios Nikolaos and the eastern part of Crete and started towards the west side. The driving distance is 200 km, which takes roughly 3 hours. Along the way we stopped in Rethymno, one of the best-preserved Venetian old towns on the island of Crete.
Its 16th-century buildings are beautiful examples of ancient architecture. In the old town, the Venetian Harbor is filled with fishing boats and lined with tavernas. Here you can roam around for hours, checking out the quirky boutiques filled with hand crafted souvenirs.
Atop the acropolis of Rethymno the Venetians erected a beautiful star-shaped fortress known as Fortezza, built in the late 16th century, which showcases both European and Moorish influences.
There are quite a few parts of the fortress still standing today, among which: the eastern gate complex where the Venetian emblem of St. Mark’s Lion was placed, the gunpowder warehouse, the artillery warehouse, a few bastions, the Holy Spirit’s Ledge, the Counselor’s residence, Catherine’s Church and Sultan Ibrahim Khan’s Mosque.
Day 6: Chania & Zorba’s Beach
Located on the northwest coast if Crete, Chania is the island’s oldest and most beautiful city dating back over 5000 years. The city was built around a Venetian port and is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe. Its historic center is a lovely labyrinth of narrow streets full of small shops, restaurants, and buildings with historical and architectural interest.
There are plenty of attractions in Chania, from ancient sites, museums, churches and castles. But perhaps the most appealing part of the town is its old Venetian harbor which was built in the 14th century for commercial purposes and for protection against pirate raids.
You can spend hours here, strolling the the long promenade lined with cafes and restaurants. This is a a much-photographed place with a touch of magic!
In the afternoon I recommend going to Zorba’s Beach, a calm and less touristy beach located just a short drive away from Chania, in the Akrotiri peninsula.
The actual name of the beach is Stavros Beach, but since 1964 when the iconic movie “Zorba the Greek” was filmed here, the beach has become famous and is now known as Zorba’s Beach.
The beach offers a very subdued and authentic experience, which is far from the embellishments of Hollywood. To the left of the beach there is a small resort called Zorbas Beach Village Hotel where you can go for some refreshments.
Day 7: Elafonissi Beach
They say that no Crete itinerary would be complete without a trip to Elafonissi and I agree. Elafonissi is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, so make sure you don’t miss it. Situated in the southwest corner of Crete, near the town of Elafonissi, the beach is famous for its pink-tinted sand created by the presence of crushed seashells and red coral fragments.
However, temper your expectations as the amount of pink on display may vary with conditions and the season. Regardless, the crystal clear waters and huge stretch of sand make this the most popular beach in Crete.
Although most of the time it is very crowded, if you keep walking you’ll surely find a spot where you can enjoy a little privacy. The drive from Chania is about 1 hour and 20 minutes, but the road is packed, especially during the summer.
To reach Elafonissi, you’ll have to cross the White Mountains, which are absolutely spectacular, but the road may be a little scary at times. In some areas there are no guard rails and you can also come across narrow parts with blind turns.
To avoid the crowds both on the road and at the beach, visit early in the morning or in the evening, when most people have left.
Also, hike up to the neighboring cedar tree reserves for a change of scenery.
Day 8: Chora Sfakia & Vrisi Beach
On our 8th day we intended to see some of Crete’s most beautiful beaches that can only be accessed by boat, located between the fishing villages of Sfakia and Loutro. Unfortunately it was a windy day on the see and the boats didn’t want to depart, so we decided to stop in Sfakia which is a very beautiful destination.
The road to Sfakia is an adventure in itself, crossing the beautiful White Mountains and passing through beautiful gorges and scenic landscapes.
In Sfakia you can walk around the village and enjoy an authentic lunch at one of the many restaurants in the harbor where you can enjoy Cretan salads, Sfakian pies and fresh local seafood.
In the afternoon I suggest visiting the quiet little pebble beach of Vrisi to enjoy some sun and blue water. The beach, which lies to the west of the town, hosts a beach club where you can rent two sun beds and an umbrella for €10.
Day 9: Paleochora & Sailboat Trip to Theodorou Island
Today you can drive to Paleochora, a charming village located on the south-west side of Crete. After strolling around the harbor, head to Pachia Amos Beach, which is the main beach in Paleochora. This is a huge stretch of golden sand with plenty of space to spread out, beach bars, sunbeds and umbrellas.
But if you are looking for a more natural and secluded beach, carry on to the far west end of the beach. Here you’ll come across some odd nudist beaches and of course plenty of gorgeous water to dive into.
One I can recommend is Chalikia, which in contrast to Pachia Ammos is a rocky beach but less busy than its sandy neighbor. The beach has umbrellas and sunbeds for hire.
In the afternoon we took a sailboat trip to Theodorou Island, which I can highly recommend. However, don’t do the sunset tour as late in the evening it gets very windy on this part of Crete.
Theodorou Island is a barren, small, uninhabited islet situated close to the shore village of Platanias, northwest of Chania. The island was once home to a Venetian fortress that was constructed in the 16th century for defense purposes.
You can still see ruins of the fortification on the island today. Unfortunately tourists are not allowed to disembark because the island is also home to a number of endangered Cretan goats (Kri- Kri) which are protected. Those animals were close to extinction and only live in a few places in Crete, most certainly on the Thodorou island and in the Samaria Gorge as well.
Day 10: Kedrodasos Beach
Kedrodasos is MY FAVORITE BEACH in Crete! A tranquil paradise of sand and water, a secret hidden treasure which I’m almost reluctant to write about for fear of making it too popular.
What makes Kedrodasos beach so special is the fact that it’s very secluded. It lies behind an ancient and very unique juniper forest with a mix of white sand, black rock and crystal-clear blue water.
The beach is located a short 20-minute hike from Elafonissi beach, but you can also reach it via a dirt road. The drive is only 10 minutes long, but from the top of the hill where you leave your car there is another 15 minutes walk to the beach.
Because it is relatively hard to reach, Kedrodasoss enjoys a tranquil and secluded atmosphere, which makes it a favorite beach for nudists. This pristine, unspoiled environment comes in such a stark contrast with the more developed and commercialized beaches you’ll find anywhere else on Crete.
Reaching the beach from Chania means driving through the narrow steep road across the White Mountains, which is spectacular but difficult and time consuming. The drive itself is not very long, but you can’t go fast and the road is almost always crowded.
One thing to keep in mind if coming to this beach is that there are no restroom facilities, no potable water and no sunbeds or umbrellas. If you need shade during the day, you can go under one of the juniper trees behind the beach.
Have you been to Crete before? Share your favorites from your visit in the comments below to help other travelers. See some of my favorite swimsuits for beach trips & best water shoes for Europe.
Still have questions? Let me know in the Comments Section below.
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